Is tomato farming profitable?
Absolutely, when done right.
Tomatoes are one of the most lucrative crops for small-scale and greenhouse growers because they combine high yield potential with strong, consistent market demand. Whether sold fresh at farmers’ markets, to restaurants, or through CSA shares, tomatoes can generate impressive returns per square foot. The key is mastering a few essential techniques that dramatically improve productivity and quality, and that’s exactly what I’ve learned through my years in the field. If you’re wondering how to increase tomato yield, it starts long before the first fruit appears.
I’d been growing tomatoes in my market garden for a few seasons and doing it pretty much like everyone else, following the textbook advice from most gardening and small-scale farming books. But eventually, I had an epiphany that changed everything. I saw with my own eyes how a true master does it, or rather, the results of what a master can do.
It happened in Paris, during a trip to present my book The Market Gardener. While exploring the open-air market on the Place du Président-Wilson, I came across a stall unlike any other, more than a hundred varieties of tomatoes, each one flawless and full of life. It was mesmerizing.
That stand belonged to Joël Thibault, often referred to as le meilleur maraîcher de France I later learned. I introduced myself, told him I was a grower from Québec. He smiled; my accent had already betrayed me.
I asked if he had one secret to share for growing such extraordinary tomatoes. He smiled again and said, “It’s not one thing, it’s many.” Then, after a pause: “But if I had to choose, I’d say this: grow amazing transplants and bury them as deep as you can. That’s the secret of my plants, it’s why they take off so well.”
He added that he also prunes them quite heavily to let the sun reach every fruit.
At the time, I thought I knew tomatoes. I’d been growing them professionally for almost seven seasons. But remember, folks this was pre-internet, when you learned from real people and firsthand advice. That’s exactly what I did. I looked into what he told me, tested it, and it’s been part of my playbook ever since. Today, I’ve added two other strategies that not everyone knows about, small tweaks that make a big difference when you want to learn how to grow more tomatoes per plant.

Grow Long, Thick Transplants and Bury Them as Deep as Possible
The quality of your transplants sets the stage for the entire season. Seedlings are ready for transplanting after 7 to 8 weeks, when they reach 12 to 16 inches (30 to 40 cm) in height. Ideally, they should be transplanted before they begin to flower.
A common mistake is keeping the nursery too cold to save on heating costs. Tomatoes need warmth to develop strong, thick stems and a solid root system. Keep the temperature around 18°C (65°F), and do not hesitate to raise it to 22°C (72°F) at night if needed. Warm air helps the plants stay active and growing instead of stalling out, which often happens in cool conditions. If you want to grow more tomatoes per plant and increase your tomato yield, you need to turn up the heat!
Another key to success is the potting mix. Do not cheap out on this. Use the best professional-grade mix you can find, not the generic one sold everywhere. If you are going to eat these tomatoes, go for a certified organic mix. A high-quality, living medium makes all the difference in early vigor, root health, and transplant resilience.
Then one week before transplanting, harden off the plants by moving them to an acclimatization area. This toughens them up for field conditions. At that time, I like to add a small pinch of dehydrated, pelleted chicken manure to each pot for an extra boost. This simple trick alone helps beginners understand how to grow more tomatoes per plant by ensuring stronger starts.
Transplanting recipe
Here’s how I like to do it:
- Dig deep. Use a trowel to make a hole about 10 inches (25 cm) deep. Give the roots plenty of room to stretch and prepare to bury the stem later on.
- Feed the hole. Add about one cup of a balanced organic fertilizer (4-4-4 or 5-3-4 works great). Mix in a handful of mature compost to bring life and biology right where the roots will grow.
- Add a potassium boost. If your soil is light or low in nutrients, sprinkle a small amount of sulfate of potash (0-0-50) or Sul-Po-Mag (0-0-22) to support flowering and fruit set later in the season.
- Water the hole well. That first soak activates the nutrients and helps the plant find its footing fast. The soil should mucky when you transplant.
- Plant deep. This is the Joël Thibault trick. Set the seedling in the hole and bury it almost halfway, so only the top leaves are above the surface. A good 10 inches (25 cm) of the stem should go underground. Remove the lower leaves from the stem (those that will be buried). It might feel odd, but that buried stem will quickly form new roots, turning your single plant into a powerhouse with twice the root system.
If you’re looking for actionable techniques on how to increase tomato yield, this one alone will double your root system and supercharge plant vigor.
- Finish strong. Leave it as such for the first few weeks, letting the plant establish new roots. In our system, I space plants 24 inches (60 cm) apart in a single row per bed. This gives room for airflow, pruning, and consistent fruit development.
Pro tip: Warm soil and steady moisture during the first ten days after transplanting make all the difference. That’s when the plant anchors itself, starts expanding its root network, and sets the foundation for heavy yields later in the season.

Prune and Top Your Tomatoes for Bigger Yields
Many aspiring growers we mentor often ask if pruning tomato plants really increases yield, and the answer is both yes and no.
Yes, pruning makes a big difference for indeterminate varieties, especially in the greenhouse. There, pruning suckers every week is essential to control growth, improve airflow, and direct the plant’s energy toward fruit production.
For field tomatoes, the approach is more relaxed. I recommend pruning two or three times during the first month to shape the plants before letting them fill out naturally. Then, do one final heavy cleanup in early August, once the plants are loaded with fruit. Removing excess leaves at that point helps the fruits ripen faster and more evenly.
In very sunny regions, be careful not to over-prune. Keep enough foliage to protect your fruits from sunscald.
In both cases, make sure to top your plants about six weeks before your expected final harvest. This practice helps significantly if your goal is to grow more tomatoes per plant, because it stops vertical growth and directs the plant’s remaining energy toward ripening the fruit that’s already set. Topping produces larger, better-colored, and more uniform tomatoes before frost, and it’s especially useful for indeterminate varieties that never stop growing.
If you want to learn more about how to prune field tomato plants, download our free cheat sheet
Final Thoughts
I’ve learned my craft not only through my own experience, but also through the knowledge shared by others, and in my opinion, that’s the best way to grow. I was lucky enough to have growers like Joël Thibault share their wisdom with me, and over the years, I’ve made it my mission to pass those lessons on. These methods, especially those related on how to increase tomato yield, are the same principles and techniques I continue to refine and teach today. All my best tricks for harvesting abundance in your garden are shared in my Grower’s Guide Series. If you want to learn how to grow plants like a pro, it’s all there, you can buy it here.
Want to learn more about building soil fertility, tomato management, and high-yield systems for small farms? Explore my article The 15 Most Profitable Crops to Grow in a Market Garden, or join our Market Gardener Masterclass, where I teach hands-on strategies for abundant, profitable growing.





